How we skipped Scotland's famous places and went for the unknown
There are no ugly places in Scotland. That’s the statement that shows my relationship I have with this country. You could drop me in what’s supposedly its dullest, least interesting corner, and I’d probably argue that it’s beautiful in a way, anyway.
This year, Lon and I set off on the ultimate two-week road trip around Scotland (you can find the full guide here). It was Lon’s first visit and my third, so I wanted to show them some of the places that had already become my favourites.
At the same time, I wanted the trip to feel new for me as well. That’s why we spent more than three quarters of our time exploring parts of Scotland I’d never visited before. With that being said, spending weeks on Google Street View searching for interesting locations, there were moments when I felt as if I’d already seen everything.
Thankfully, I couldn't have been more wrong.
Below is my completely subjective list of the most interesting places we visited.
Highlands
You can explore the Highlands on foot, by car, by bus, or by train. It really doesn't matter how you do it - just make sure you do. It's hard to go wrong here because wherever you end up, the Highlands are simply beautiful.
Here are my very subjective top three.
Corrour and the Loch Ossian loop
Corrour is the most remote railway station in the UK, known from the movie Trainspotting. The only way to reach it is by train (or by foot if you like to hike miles), which makes the whole experience even better.
From the station, you can follow a trail around Loch Ossian. It's a perfect day hike if you take the morning train from Fort William towards Edinburgh. Once you're back, grab a late lunch at the station café before catching the afternoon train.
Glen Etive and a night by the River Etive
If you want to see one of the most beautiful valleys in Glencoe, make sure you leave the main road and head into Glen Etive.
Spending a night by the River Etive - whether in a tent or a camper - is something you won't forget, especially if, like us, you wake up to freezing temperatures.
I'd recommend going sooner rather than later. Thanks to James Bond and Instagram, the area has become increasingly popular and can get busy during the summer months.
The White Cottage in Glencoe
This is probably the most famous spot on the list. Without a doubt, it's one of the most photogenic places in Glencoe. Sure, it's a bit of a cliché these days, but it's still worth stopping for. It's simply a lovely place.
If you want the best light - and a chance of having the place almost to yourself - go early in the morning, when the sun lights up the side of the cottage.
Isle of Skye
Most people come to Skye for the Old Man of Storr and the Quiraing. They're there and they’re beautiful. But if I'm being honest, I'd almost tell you to skip them. Instead, head further into the island and explore its western side. The drive alone is enough to make you fall in love with Skye.
Lookout Bothy
Lookout is a small bothy perched on the edge of a cliff. You can reach it by following the trail towards Rubha Hunish from Shulista Road, famous for its red phone box.
You can spend the night there for free if you bring your own sleeping bag and everything else you need, or simply stop for a while, take in the views, and enjoy the atmosphere of a place that has welcomed countless hikers - and photographers - over the years.
Dunvegan and the view of MacLeod's Tables
Most people know Dunvegan because of its castle, but that's not why I'd recommend going there.
From Dunvegan - or while driving along the A863 - you'll get beautiful views of the MacLeod's Tables. At sunset, that's really all you need. I took my favorite photo of the whole trip over there.
Any single-track road - especially between Portree and Buanluint, or Portree and Carbost
This is the kind of place where you can happily get lost, even though the road only goes in one direction.
Spend a rainy day exploring these roads, stopping whenever something catches your eye, and you'll probably end up with some of your favourite memories from Skye. Few places on Earth feel this wild while still being so easy to access.
Harris & Lewis
Disclaimer: Harris completely stole my heart, so this section is going to be highly subjective. Lewis is beautiful too, don't get me wrong, but Harris is simply on a different level.
To me, Harris is the definition of beauty: raw landscapes, endless space, dramatic skies, water, rocks, and a sense of wilderness. And then there are the beaches - completely unexpected in a place like this.
Luskentyre Beach
As soon as you leave the ferry in Tarbert, head south. Stop at one of the roadside parking areas overlooking Luskentyre - many of them allow overnight parking - and take a moment to admire the view before you even reach the beach.
Luskentyre has turquoise water and pristine white sand. It looks almost tropical, until the wind picks up and you're reminded that you're very much in Scotland.
The loop drive around the southern part of Harris
You will need a few hours to drive around the southern part of the island, assuming you stop every now and then for photos - which you absolutely should.
We drove the loop anticlockwise, but I'd happily do it again in the opposite direction. I've heard it feels like a completely different drive, and I'd love to find out if that's true.
Leverburgh – for those who appreciate imperfections
Leverburgh feels like one of those villages the rest of the world forgot about.
I think we ended up there by accident, which tends to happen whenever I decide to leave the main road - a habit I'd recommend to anyone travelling around Scotland, or anywhere really.
It's the ferry port for Berneray, but before you get there, you'll pass a car graveyard and all the wonderfully scruffy, functional clutter that comes with a working fishing harbour. There's nothing polished about it, and that's exactly why I liked it.
NC500
The A838 between Rhiconich and Durness
This stretch of road feels like driving through another world. For miles, it's just you, a wide open valley, and maybe the occasional passing car.
The entire NC500 is worth driving simply for the experience. In many ways, it's Scotland's answer to Route 66. Take your time, pull over whenever something catches your eye, stop at tiny petrol stations, and photograph rural Scotland as much as you can.
But the section between Rhiconich and Durness is something else entirely. It feels almost unreal. Bring a good playlist and good company. On this road, you don't even need to stop - this part makes the journey itself the destination.